Product Development Tips: When manufacturing goes wrong

Photo Credit: Cherie Buziak

Photo Credit: Cherie Buziak

It’s crazy how much effort goes into getting a product on the shelf. And sometimes, the decisions are never about the product. The decisions are about trusting in the big picture, they’re about trusting yourself and who you have become as a creative marketing product developer, trusting your colleagues and trusting time.

How Things Usually Work

As a product developer, you may be asked to go on the first production run for the product that you and the R&D teams developed at the lab level. This is a great learning opportunity to observe how a product moves from tubs of raw materials and is processed all the way through to a final filled and packaged product.

Generally, attendance isn’t something that is done alone. Production engineers, R&D teams, chemists and QC teams join and meet pre-, mid- and post-production.

The brunt of the manufacturing typically lies in the hands of the production engineers. Raw materials need to be weighed, checked and double-checked for quality assurance. Everything is in their corner. However, depending on the size of the company you work for, the marketing product developer may need to approve the final produced bulk. That's where I came in.

When Things Go Wrong

I was three months into a new position running my first manufacturing batch. I was faced with a scaled-up bulk that, well….didn’t look right.

On this first production run the product, a moisturizer, formed a slight liquid on the surface after being filled—not a good sign. We never saw this type of behavior of the bulk at the lab level. It wasn’t a large amount of liquid. I actually had to tilt the jar on its side, and look pretty closely, but it was there. I thought to myself:  "Will the flaw be significantly noticeable to the customer, or was I just being picky about the formula aesthetic?" 

My first thought was: now what? I’m not a chemist, but I did know enough to understand that this early separation sign could mean that the product would eventually separate once delivered and was sitting on the selling shelf.

My boss wasn’t there to consult with me, and Skype, FaceTime and instant meeting apps were not yet the industry go-to, nor was sending pictures via phone or e-mail.

The engineering and R&D teams were there, but, since I was representing the marketing team, I had to make the multi-million-dollar decision of how to proceed.
 

Questions I Had to Answer as a Product Developer

  1. Do we let these pieces that were filled go to market, and then adjust the formula for the next scale up?

  2. Do I hold this batch from being shipped?

  3. Will the flaw be significantly noticeable to the customer, or was I just being picky about the formula aesthetic?

  4. Do I give the order for a multi-million-dollar do-over by directing the team to trash the bulk and packaging and start over?

What I Did

First, I decided to wait. In a world where speed to market is the norm, doing nothing looks like no decision at all.

And yet, I trusted my gut. At some point in your career, you learn to listen to that inner voice. Gut instinct—it’s not something you can write on your CV as a skill set.

And with doing nothing comes the inner discipline of sitting well with your decision, even while knowing that everyone around you wants you to do something—and what they want you to do is make a decision that they can see. A decision that moves the process forward.

Through the support of my supervisor, I held my ground. I slept on it. Why? I not only trusted myself, but I trusted my colleagues and the wisdom I had gained from the chemists in the labs over time. Sometimes the initial pour of a product continues to change over the first 24 hours. Viscosity can build, and texture can feel different. I wanted to wait and see what would happen. 

Finally, I put things in perspective. I recalled a common internal mantra that we shared in the office to help lighten things up when things got tough: “We’re making beauty products; we’re not curing cancer.”

What Happened and What We Learned

The next morning we realized that the formula had been poured and capped when it was a little too warm, so it formed a slight condensation on the surface of the bulk. It didn’t happen to every piece, but it occurred enough to step back and evaluate the situation.

Some Things Just Need Time

By the next morning, the bulk was back to normal. It was a relief to give the go-ahead to move forward with production. And we learned a few things. We learned that this particular formula had a very sensitive viscosity level.

Viscosity specs needed to be watched closely during manufacturing or else we could end up with a very runny formula coming out of a jar with cap component—not desirable.

A Happy Ending

Today, we run in a fast business of trying to meet consumer demands, and waiting, for time, can be an unheard of concept. But some principles never change: some things just need time.

You can’t force matters if time is needed for a decision to be made, or a process to happen. Experience, trust and diligence yield better results.

Oh, and one more thing. This particular product ended up winning a CEW award. Happy ending!

This article was originally published in Global Cosmetic Industry Magazine.

Product Development Tips: Building your Skillset

Building Your Beauty Product Development Skillset

in-cosmetics 2019 N.A. is behind us, and we continue to relish the memories and learning moments from the conference!

Below is a fun, video highlight, from the Sensory Bar featuring science and beauty YouTuber, and new friend, Trina Espinoza.  (Trina hosts a YouTube channel called Ms. Beautyphile. Read more about her at the end of this article.)

Re-watching this video featuring formulas that sparkle, bounce-back, and transform, emphasizes the importance of innovative technology and how to create a sensorial experience that connects with the consumer.

Click the image to view the video.


The Importance of Beauty Product Aesthetics

Products are designed to delight, enhance, and beautify the body while creating an enjoyable product engagement experience for the consumer. Aside from product performance, product experience motivates the consumer to return and repurchase products time and again. 

Research backs this up. Facebook IQ hired Accenture to study the shopping habits and preferences of American adults that purchase beauty products. When asked how they research and evaluate beauty products, 61% of make-up and 55% of facial skincare shoppers reported relying on physical locations for in-person evaluations.  Although consumers are active with online purchasing, real time product and textural engagement is key. And in the digital age, we have yet to offer a real life textural and sensorial experience through a screen that goes beyond the visual.


The Art of Aesthetic Product Development

Evaluating beauty products tactilely is an art.  It’s a talent that is developed through years and years of working with hundreds of product textures, and from learning from cross functional team members.   
 

Cross Functional Teams:  

Chemists: Understanding how raw materials work within a formula requires developing products alongside seasoned chemists. Chemists offer education on how ingredients will affect the product’s aesthetics and performance. 

Consumer Science: Developing desired claims with consumer science teams brings an understanding about how aesthetic texture and product performance will translate into claims based on the appearance and sensorial engagement of the product. 

Raw Material Suppliers: Reviewing new raw material product launches and new textures with suppliers will keep you current to industry trends. 

Learning from these teams, tracking and evaluating hundreds of products, and understanding aesthetic product development language will create a visual aesthetic library in your mind.  
 

Develop the Aesthetic for The Final User

When developing a product from an aesthetic perspective, the final consumer is who the product developer has to keep in mind.  It doesn’t really matter much if you, the developer, personally “love” the aesthetic of the product you’re developing. Put yourself in the mindset of the final consumer and make decisions based on that perspective. 

For example, if the final user that you're developing a product for has very oily skin, and the product is developed with a thick, aesthetic texture, that leaves behind a rich, dewy after feel, that person is most likely going to be turned off by the product aesthetic. The formula will need to be adjusted if it doesn’t rub in to their liking, transition quickly, and dry down in accordance to their desired after-feel. 


The Love Language of Aesthetic Product Development

Aesthetic product development is also attained through very technical guidelines and language in the laboratories. When speaking with chemists, we use specific terminology to communicate about the texture and performance that needs to be achieved for the final consumer experience.  Dedicated chemists will go the extra mile and apply the product on their own skin to experience the product and determine if it is in alignment with the aesthetic requirements set forth from the marketing brief and product benchmark. 

Below is a short list of aesthetic terms. You may want to practice using these terms in order to enhance your aesthetic development skill set.  As a quick lesson for yourself, line up 15 different cream textures. Then label the aesthetic descriptors to each product using the below terminology.

Image copyright: BeautyEdge LLC

Image copyright: BeautyEdge LLC

A Technical View of Aesthetic Qualities

Did you know that Gattefossé, a designer and provider of innovative technologies, has an expert sensory panel of evaluators?  Yes, it’s true! 

Their 15-person panel, established in 1996 and headquartered in France, continually touches, feels and evaluates finished skincare formulations. What an awesome job! If evaluating only 100 products per year, someone on the panel since the founding would have evaluated approximately 2,400 products to date!  Now that is how you build a mindful aesthetic library: by constantly sampling and experiencing hundreds and hundreds of products.   

The graph below is just 7 out of the 18 or so criteria that the Gattefossé expert panel evaluates against. 

Image Copyright: Gattefosse’

Image Copyright: Gattefosse’

My friends at Gattefossé sometimes offer a half-day evaluation session at their Paramus, NJ location.  You can contact Lauren DelDotto to inquire about any upcoming evaluation dates for 2020.

It’s OK to be a Beginner

I recently had a moment of deep empathy for a young makeup artist. From a distance, I was watching her apply makeup on a customer in a department store. Both she and the customer appeared to be enjoying this time of makeup application. However, when 30 minutes of application turned into 45 minutes, a second makeup artist came in to apply makeup to the customer. Out of curiosity, I stepped over to where they were to see why the switch in artists.  

The young artist was beside herself and immediately blurted out, “I did a horrible job. I know my own facial structure and how to apply cosmetics, but I don’t always know how to apply cosmetics to other people’s facial structure.” She was obviously being overly critical of herself and her talents. To ease her stress, I put my hand on her shoulder, did an imaginary motion of brushing something off her shoulder and advised her to shake it off. 

All was not lost. The second artist was able to remedy the issue. This young artist was in the beginning stages of developing her make up artistry skills and was experiencing growing pains. Should that makeup artist step away from her skill set of artistry? No. Does she need to practice more on applying makeup on other people? Yes! Would it have been a better experience for her, and the customer had she asked for supervision and assistance from a senior artist before it became an emergency? Definitely. 

Seeing her experience was a reminder for me that we all continue to evolve with our talents. This applies to all careers and it’s the same with cosmetic/beauty product development. It’s not something that anyone can just jump into and expect to instantly succeed with no prior experience. To evaluate a product well without experience is impossible. Just as it’s impossible to become an Olympic gold medalist on your second day ever playing tennis.

If you’re looking for more information on product development, or need the guidance of a seasoned expert to help you with your process, contact me at cherie@beautyedgeinc.com.  We can work through your development needs together.

Until then, keep mastering your craft!

About Trina Espinoza: Trina shares the science behind beauty and personal care products that appeals to a consumer-based audience. Her accomplishments include being featured on Mashable as one of “six YouTube channels that make learning about science fun”.  She has been nominated for a Regional Emmy and has made guest appearances on the American Chemical Society’s Reactions series.

If you want to know more about Trina, you can find her on FBYT, Instagram, and Twitter @msbeautyphile.

Product Development Tips 1/2020

Building Your Beauty Product Development Skillset

in-cosmetics 2019 N.A. is behind us, and we continue to relish the memories and learning moments from the conference!

Below is a fun, video highlight, from the Sensory Bar featuring science and beauty YouTuber, and new friend, Trina Espinoza.  (Trina hosts a YouTube channel called Ms. Beautyphile. Read more about her at the end of this article.)

Re-watching this video featuring formulas that sparkle, bounce-back, and transform, emphasizes the importance of innovative technology and how to create a sensorial experience that connects with the consumer.

Click the image to view the video.


The Importance of Beauty Product Aesthetics

Products are designed to delight, enhance, and beautify the body while creating an enjoyable product engagement experience for the consumer. Aside from product performance, product experience motivates the consumer to return and repurchase products time and again. 

Research backs this up. Facebook IQ hired Accenture to study the shopping habits and preferences of American adults that purchase beauty products. When asked how they research and evaluate beauty products, 61% of make-up and 55% of facial skincare shoppers reported relying on physical locations for in-person evaluations.  Although consumers are active with online purchasing, real time product and textural engagement is key. And in the digital age, we have yet to offer a real life textural and sensorial experience through a screen that goes beyond the visual.


The Art of Aesthetic Product Development

Evaluating beauty products tactilely is an art.  It’s a talent that is developed through years and years of working with hundreds of product textures, and from learning from cross functional team members.   
 

Cross Functional Teams:  

Chemists: Understanding how raw materials work within a formula requires developing products alongside seasoned chemists. Chemists offer education on how ingredients will affect the product’s aesthetics and performance. 

Consumer Science: Developing desired claims with consumer science teams brings an understanding about how aesthetic texture and product performance will translate into claims based on the appearance and sensorial engagement of the product. 

Raw Material Suppliers: Reviewing new raw material product launches and new textures with suppliers will keep you current to industry trends. 

Learning from these teams, tracking and evaluating hundreds of products, and understanding aesthetic product development language will create a visual aesthetic library in your mind.  
 

Develop the Aesthetic for The Final User

When developing a product from an aesthetic perspective, the final consumer is who the product developer has to keep in mind.  It doesn’t really matter much if you, the developer, personally “love” the aesthetic of the product you’re developing. Put yourself in the mindset of the final consumer and make decisions based on that perspective. 

For example, if the final user that you're developing a product for has very oily skin, and the product is developed with a thick, aesthetic texture, that leaves behind a rich, dewy after feel, that person is most likely going to be turned off by the product aesthetic. The formula will need to be adjusted if it doesn’t rub in to their liking, transition quickly, and dry down in accordance to their desired after-feel. 


The Love Language of Aesthetic Product Development

Aesthetic product development is also attained through very technical guidelines and language in the laboratories. When speaking with chemists, we use specific terminology to communicate about the texture and performance that needs to be achieved for the final consumer experience.  Dedicated chemists will go the extra mile and apply the product on their own skin to experience the product and determine if it is in alignment with the aesthetic requirements set forth from the marketing brief and product benchmark. 

Below is a short list of aesthetic terms. You may want to practice using these terms in order to enhance your aesthetic development skill set.  As a quick lesson for yourself, line up 15 different cream textures. Then label the aesthetic descriptors to each product using the below terminology.

Image copyright: BeautyEdge LLC

Image copyright: BeautyEdge LLC

A Technical View of Aesthetic Qualities

Did you know that Gattefossé, a designer and provider of innovative technologies, has an expert sensory panel of evaluators?  Yes, it’s true! 

Their 15-person panel, established in 1996 and headquartered in France, continually touches, feels and evaluates finished skincare formulations. What an awesome job! If evaluating only 100 products per year, someone on the panel since the founding would have evaluated approximately 2,400 products to date!  Now that is how you build a mindful aesthetic library: by constantly sampling and experiencing hundreds and hundreds of products.   

The graph below is just 7 out of the 18 or so criteria that the Gattefossé expert panel evaluates against. 

Image Copyright: Gattefosse’

Image Copyright: Gattefosse’

My friends at Gattefossé sometimes offer a half-day evaluation session at their Paramus, NJ location.  You can contact Lauren DelDotto to inquire about any upcoming evaluation dates for 2020.

It’s OK to be a Beginner

I recently had a moment of deep empathy for a young makeup artist. From a distance, I was watching her apply makeup on a customer in a department store. Both she and the customer appeared to be enjoying this time of makeup application. However, when 30 minutes of application turned into 45 minutes, a second makeup artist came in to apply makeup to the customer. Out of curiosity, I stepped over to where they were to see why the switch in artists.  

The young artist was beside herself and immediately blurted out, “I did a horrible job. I know my own facial structure and how to apply cosmetics, but I don’t always know how to apply cosmetics to other people’s facial structure.” She was obviously being overly critical of herself and her talents. To ease her stress, I put my hand on her shoulder, did an imaginary motion of brushing something off her shoulder and advised her to shake it off. 

All was not lost. The second artist was able to remedy the issue. This young artist was in the beginning stages of developing her make up artistry skills and was experiencing growing pains. Should that makeup artist step away from her skill set of artistry? No. Does she need to practice more on applying makeup on other people? Yes! Would it have been a better experience for her, and the customer had she asked for supervision and assistance from a senior artist before it became an emergency? Definitely. 

Seeing her experience was a reminder for me that we all continue to evolve with our talents. This applies to all careers and it’s the same with cosmetic/beauty product development. It’s not something that anyone can just jump into and expect to instantly succeed with no prior experience. To evaluate a product well without experience is impossible. Just as it’s impossible to become an Olympic gold medalist on your second day ever playing tennis.

If you’re looking for more information on product development, or need the guidance of a seasoned expert to help you with your process, contact me at cherie@beautyedgeinc.com.  We can work through your development needs together.

Until then, keep mastering your craft!

About Trina Espinoza: Trina shares the science behind beauty and personal care products that appeals to a consumer-based audience. Her accomplishments include being featured on Mashable as one of “six YouTube channels that make learning about science fun”.  She has been nominated for a Regional Emmy and has made guest appearances on the American Chemical Society’s Reactions series.

If you want to know more about Trina, you can find her on FBYT, Instagram, and Twitter @msbeautyphile.